GL-1000
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The following information was archived from:

http://msproul.rutgers.edu/motorcycle/tidbits/carbclean.html

The site is no longer accessible and is being presented here unmodified.  It is not my work and if the original owner wishes to contact me regarding this post please do so.  I will honor your wishes.

It is being posted here to help preserve GL1000 history as stated on my opening page.

Of course, the Gold Standard on this subject is HERE on Randakk's Site.


GL1000 Carburetor Cleaning

Cleaning the carbs can be very teadious work, everything must be thoroughly cleaned. The following tips should help.
  • GL1000 Floats The book says the float level is 21 mm. The floats have to be set correctly or the float bowl will run dry at 23 mm or flood at 19mm. The setting is made with the carb upside down thus gravity takes the place of the fuel on closing the gas needle valve. You can blow in the fuel line to get an idea of when this closing takes place. Measure from the bottom of the float to the gasket surface of the carb with the float bowl gasket removed.

  • You should not use wire to clean out any of the orifices, any scratches can alter the size of the orifices and change the balance.
  • Permatex carburetor cleaning solution has shown favorable results
  • Supposidly GL1100 carbs put on GL1000 engines improve reponsiveness fuel economy.

Posted by Roy Thomas on March 30, 1997

In Reply to: Rebuilding GL-1000 Carbs posted by John B. Katkus on March 17, 1997

John: Here are a few comments I can add from my experiences with these carbs on my 76 GL1000.

  • In comparison to the Kehien carbs on a CB, there are a whole truckload of jets and ports; two complete power circuits as well as the idle and off-idle circuits. This is not a concern, just more care is needed to get everthing back in place. It is quite a fascinating design and I have spent a bit of time understaning how it is all supposed to work.
  • I remove the four carbs and airbox as a unit, removing them out the right side of the bike. To do comparisons and checks, I do the same step to each of the four carbs . (good for getting the float level the same on each one.)
  • The primary and secondary air jets can be mixed up They will fit in either port. The primary (#120) goes closest to the butterfly valve. (These two jets are found under the crescent shaped cover below the vacum piston.)
  • Both the primary and secondary fuel jets can be in stalled backwards. There is a grove at each end of the jet, one for the O-ring and the other for the spring clip that holds them in place. Once the O-ring has been removed for cleaning it could be misleading which way they are to be installed. The proper way is with O-ring installed at the small orficed end and that end goes into the carb body.
  • Carbs must be sync'ed after any work. Guesing or trial and error doesn't cut it. A mercury manometer works the best. Doing the sync'ing in the correct order makes the job easier.
    1. Balance the right bank first (#1 & #3) Adjust screw on #1
    2. Balance the left bank next (#2 & #4) Adjust screw on #2
    3. Balance the two banks to each other. Adjust screw on #4

Just a final comment. I have a Clymer #340 manual for reference and find it to be fairly adequate. However I have found one typo in it which misleaded me. I have the fifth edition, 10th printing - Nov 1990. In chapter 6, page 101 there is Table One which lists jet sizes. It says primary air jets are #60 and secondary air jets are #120. This is incorrect. The reverse is true.

Good luck, enjoy, and if I can be of any more help, just Email me. thomro@sk.sympatico.ca

  

       
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